From Flax Plant to Linen Bedlinen
Creating Linen Bedlinen: The Manufacturing Process
Flax is one of the important crops still produced in Western Europe,
with nearly 130,000 acres under cultivation annually. Climatic conditions
in this region are perfect for growing high quality flax, and increasing
worldwide demand for linen makes it an important cash crop.
The growing cycle is short and sweet, with only 100 days between sowing
in March and harvesting in July. The plant ripens by the end of June into
a golden yellow colour, and then it flowers, dotting the fields with blossoms
of violet, blue and white. This display is over quickly however, as each
flax plant blooms for just one day only.
Harvesting: To preserve the full potential of each plant, flax
is never cut down but is uprooted. Right through until the end of the
Second World War, this was an exhausting process done by hand. Today,
mechanical grubbers have taken over this tiring work.
Drying: After harvesting, the flax is stacked in hedges to dry.
Once dried, the seeds are removed.
Retting and Turning: Then flax is exposed to moisture to break
down the pectin that binds the fibres together. In the past, flax was
retted in rivers, particularly in the Lys region, which imparted a lovely
golden glow to the fibers. Today, for ecological reasons, retting is no
longer performed in rivers. The preferred method still requires the intervention
of Mother Nature as the flax is spread out in the fields and exposed to
rain, dew and sunshine for several weeks
Stripping and Combing: During these mechanical processes the fibres
are separated from the straw (shives), and then graded into the short
fibers (tow) which is used for coarser yarns, or the longer fibres (line)
which will be used to create the finest linen yarn.
Drafting and doubling, or carding, draw out the long or short fibres
into sinuous "ribbons" which are then plied together on spinning
looms in various weights and thicknesses. The fine yarn is "wet spun"
to impart a smoother, shiny appearance. The tow are commonly "dry
spun" yielding a less regular and napped yarn.
Weaving, Bleaching and Dyeing: Before any weaving occurs, the linen
yarns are examined for strength, evenness and pliancy. Close tolerances
on these properties are required because of the great speed of today's
power looms. The looms of Libeco·Lagae for instance, run around
the clock and are monitored by a central computer to ensure quality and
efficiency. During their 8-hour shift, each weaver can now be responsible
for 10 to 15 looms.
After weaving, each yard of fabric is examined and quality tested. If
the fabric is not being used in this raw state, it moves to the finishing
department where it is bleached and/or dyed. Bleaching linen requires
consummate skill-enough chemicals to remove any pectin or shive residue,
but not so much as to compromise the structure of the fibers. After bleaching
or dyeing, various treatments to make it crease or stain resistant.
No other fibre can offer this unique blend of luxury and comfort, supreme
elegance and down-to-earth practicality.
Bleaching, weaving, and finishing processes depend on the qualities of
the final product, which is incredibly varied, from sailcloth, canvas,
sacking, cambric, to fine lawn. Because of the length of its fibre, linen
yarn has twice the strength of cotton, and yet is superior in delicacy.
Due to Linen's widespread use for fine fabrics, 'linens' became the commonly
used term for sheets, duvets and pillowcases.
Thanks to Libeco Linen for this information. This family owned company
have been weaving linen in Belgium since 1858 and supply us with an outstanding
pure linen bedlinen
collection.
Next: Why Choose Pure Linen Bedlinen
>>
Previous: The History of Linen
Contact: 01903 746079
Biju
Unit 11 Water Lane Trading Estate
Storrington
West Sussex
RH20 3EA
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